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I have a full-on anti-microbial and pretty much everything else
filter under my galley sink AND
one I can attach to the faucet. This does NOT mean I don't pre-filter the incoming water that goes into my fresh water tank. Fresh water is so vitally important for humans and their pets, you cannot overestimate the importance of clean water. The frugal (read "cheap") side of me likes the idea of extending the life of my expensive tiny-micron filters by taking out lots of stuff before it does it's work. Enter the basic carbon filter. These are everywhere and come in various brands, but are all very similar. The main issue is getting them to work without multiple hoses and the headaches that come with them. Here's how I make it work with a minimum of fuss.
First, buy a filter. Sounds obvious, but I am writing that first one for a reason. Several of the filters on the market (usually sold individually) come with a short section of hose with male and female ends and a spring wrapped around them for strain relief. You NEED one of these. Yes, you can make one from a cut piece of old hose. Usually from one someone has driven over the end of. (Yes, I have done that many times over the years.) I prefer the pre-made one. It's made for potable water use and it's a very convenient size with a large plastic "nut" that is easy to turn.
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Second, remove the rubber/vinyl caps from the filter. Next, screw the hose end into the outlet end of the water filter and connect your garden hose to the inlet side. Simply place the unconnected end of the short piece into your gravity water fill (or, if you don't have one, screw it onto the city water inlet) then turn on the water...SLOWLY..so the pressure does not pop it out of the fill hole. That's it. The tank will fill. How long it takes is directly related to how big your tank is and how empty it has gotten. I usually do something else, but stay close by to shut off the water when it slightly overflows.
Make sure, when you are done, you disconnect the ends and empty the filter. Lots of water remains in the filter after use. The rubber/vinyl caps do NOT always seal well and you may end up with water in your storage bay or worse. After emptying it, put the caps back on. Close up the water inlet and Store the filter and hose end. Done.
All in all, fast and easy and you haven't used a full length potable water hose at all. Convenient if you have a long hose run and only have one of them. Work smarter, not harder!
Be Seeing You...Down The Road,
Rich
"The Wanderman"
www.thewanderman.com
After you connect the new filter to the hose, make sure that you let the water run through the hose and filter before connecting to the RV fill tube. There is a lot of carbon that will be flushed out, and you don't want that in your fresh water tank.
ReplyDeleteSimon,
DeleteGREAT tip.. You do get a lot of the carbon flakes at first....
Thanks,
Rich "The Wanderman"
You need to be careful about over filling the tank. On some RVs if the tank will expand and cause damage to heating ducts or other components above the tank.
ReplyDeleteBob,
DeleteSince I only turn the water on at low pressure, the overfill is quite gentle. If you have one of those RVs that the tank can be damaged that easily, I worry for other build quality concerns!
Rich "The Wanderman"
I have a sediment filter (permanent well type) plus a whole house 0.5 micro filter on my incoming water. I am one of those odd people who doesn't trust the water supply. Might have something to do with living in the same town as a campground who would test positive for cysts in their water several times during the summer months. The notice in the local paper was always put in a month AFTER the cysts were detected. And what about the thru?
ReplyDeleteLMS,
DeleteBetter safe than sorry! There could be lots of nasty things in there before anyone notices and notifies the public!
Rich "The Wanderman"