|Battery Drawer RIGHT of Main Entry|
There are a few kinds of batteries installed in RV's these days. Mainly they fall into two categories:
Flooded Lead Acid - These are what I have and most folks have as well, they REQUIRE some maintenance.
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) - A pricier and slightly more efficient technology. They require almost no maintenance and cannot usually be "topped off" with water as they are sealed.
There are other technologies that can be used. I am currently (and have been for some time) researching Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo3) batteries. As soon as I can get these at a reasonable price AND they can be charged correctly, I will upgrade.
|My Battery Storage Drawer|
|One Cover Removed|
Each battery manufacturer uses a slightly different way of determining whether the battery has the proper amount of water in each cell (opening). Mine have a plastic extension the reaches down about 2 inches into the cell. I fill them so the water just touches the bottom of this plastic protrusion
You MUST use distilled water. Water with any contaminants will shorten the life of you battery. Besides, it's cheap and available at any supermarket in gallon jugs.
|Funnels Make This a MUCH Easier Job|
|CLOSE COVER FIRST!!|
MAKE SURE NOTHING FALLS INTO THE BATTERY OPENINGS!! That would be bad. Enough corrosion in your battery and it will short out severely shortening it's life.
Some very bright folks wrote in to let me know a Turkey Baster also works well for this process. I agree. I just wouldn't recommend using it for actual Turkey basting afterwards!
Close the covers or caps after making sure all of them are properly filled. Your chassis/engine battery will need the same basic maintenance if it isn't one of the sealed types. I check that right after tending to the house batteries. That's all there is to it. Following these simple steps will make sure you have battery power when you need it and will likely extend the life of your batteries.
Be Seeing You, Down The Road...
Rich "The Wanderman"